Restaurant Palazzo Ducale has many constant clients. This place impersonates prestige, it’s decorated like a museum, and it has a mystery ambience. The founder Tatyana Kurbatskaya managed to unite in one place heartwarming atmosphere and Italian luxury surroundings in the interior of Venetian Palace. But in my opinion the reputation of the restaurant is based on improvisations of a Chef who creates unique dishes in the kitchen and brings friendly warm aura when he meets and greets guests. There is no snobbism or glamourness in his genuine smile and welcome hug. Everybody loves Tino Demonstis. This famous man cooks at private dinners for Russian elite, and interacts with higher society in Moscow. On another side it’s just a kind man with a big heart and a talent to cook; he loves to create that’s why he calls himself an artist not a chef. Tino is from Sardinia, the island of rich and famous, therefore Italian Mediterranean touch is in all his creations. But as Tino mentioned he tried to include in his menu at least one dish from each Italian region.
What was your path to today’s job? Do you think a man has to be born with a talent to cook or it’s a difficult long road of learning how to become a professional chef?
(Tino is smiling). I never thought that I would cook professionally. When I was at university I studied humanitarian sciences, I liked sociology and philosophy. After school I went to the army and I served in marines. Once our chef got sick and I was asked to take over the kitchen. I didn’t know how to cook anything may be except how to boil spaghetti. But I was happy to take on board a new task because it was better than cleaning toilets. I called my mother and she gave me many receipts. I didn’t make anything extraordinary but I learned how to grill meat and make pasta sauce. After the army I left for Germany and my first job was to clean dishes at one of the Italian restaurants. Very quickly I realized that I can never wash dishes forever and asked the chef to teach me cooking. I became a chef’s assistance not long after that. But I never went to any cooking classes or school.
Who would you call your first teacher?
It was Pepino Bermino, my friend with who I worked with in Berlin. We worked together four years and I learned a lot from him.
Why did you decide to come to Russia?
It was a few changes in my personal life and I was going to leave Germany. This is when my friend Mauricio called me from Moscow. He worked at Mario at that time and needed help in the kitchen. Mauricio asked me if I would come for a while to help him out. I was glad to accept the offer and didn’t plan to stay long in Moscow. But as you can see I’ve been here now for seven years.
Why did you stay?
(Tino is trying to hide a mysterious smile). I felt in love and got married! Of course I felt in love with Moscow and Russian culture as well. I liked my work at Mario and the experience I had. When a new restaurant was opening up (Palazzo Ducale) I was asked to become a chef.
There are many good Italian restaurants in Moscow, why Palazzo Ducale is different? It is also almost a twin brother to Mario?
We treat our clients like kings and ready to implement any capricious order. We build our attention around client and sometimes we even use our guest’s receipts. I use only the best and fresh ingredients. Italian cuisine is famous for been simple, home made and fresh. Its true we have the same owner with Mario and we have a few similar dishes. But in Palazzo Ducale we have own “specials” like stewed goat with artichokes – spectacular receipt from my grandmother. My family has a tradition to cook this dish for Christmas. We also have a few dished we named after our guests, for example spaghetti “Mafioso”.
Please tell more about your innovative creations. What new dishes have you recently put on a menu?
I like experiments and always try new variations and mix of ingredients. Sometimes it turns out to be fantastic and sometimes I have to throw it out into garbage. I visited Georgian restaurant “Genatzvalli” not long ago and I really liked hachapuri. I wanted to make something similar but only in Italian way. So I made very thin dough and put in my new pizza a mix of mozzarella and parmesan cheese and closed it with another layer of dough. I sprinkled more cheese on top and put it in the oven. A few minutes later my pizza exploded into a large ball and I thought that my experiment was a failure. But when some of my staff tried it they thought it was exceptional new pizza, in fact, very different from a traditional one. So in the menu I called it atomic bomb pizza. Zucchini flower is a rare and difficult ingredient to get but when I have it, I serve it with ricotta cheese. I also have ox tale on the menu. Once I was visiting Adriano (Mario’s chef) in Rome and tried ox tale at his house. Since than I only use this receipt and it’s my favorite dish! I try to mix Italian and Russian cuisines. Last week we were serving pelmeny with white mushrooms.
Could a chef of different nationality cook authentic Italian cuisine? Do you think a chef has to go practice Italian cooking in Italy in order to understand a culture and the atmosphere?
I have a small Italy right here! I‘ve been very lucky to be working with great people. Andrey and Vasya can cook some dishes better than me! They are dedicated, hardworking, talented employees and I am happy to work with them.
Do you speak to your colleagues/other chefs in Moscow to exchange ideas?
Yes, all the time. I am friends with a chef from Semilfredo. I even asked him for one of his receipts and put it on my menu.
What are your favorite restaurants in Moscow and in Italy?
In Moscow I like Mario, Semilfredo, Cheese. Our competitor Cantineta Antinori is a great place. When I want Russian cuisine I go to Puskhin. In Italy I can recommend El Bolognese in Rome, Doforne in Venice, La Tradizionale in Milan and on Sardinia the best place to eat is at my sister’s house.
Do you cook at home?
Not often, I work long hours, but on the weekends I could treat my family to something special.